When I was invited to a 10th Birthday Party I was taken aback, as the ones I am usually asked to nowadays invariably begin with a digit no lower than 6. Still, it was ages since I had jelly and cream, or would it be a Happy Meal at the Golden Arches, so I said I would be pleased to accept. Pleased I certainly was, as the birthday boys in question were Mayur and Marko, the owners of the iconic Leeds city centre Indian restaurant, Bundobust.
Marko and Mayur enjoying life.
The thing about Bundobust is that every time you visit it seems like a party, and that comes from someone who has eaten there alone several times. The dishes, or, to be more precise, the cardboard cups, are of the right size and price to warrant getting a couple, although the portions can be deceptive. The best way of enjoying this place, though, is with a few friends – that is why I dine alone, I don’t have any – and placing an order for a set menu so that you can dip into each pot, thus eliminating food envy. Everything is meat-free but that is irrelevant, even to a confirmed carnivore like myselfy, due to the innovative nature of the preparation and presentation.
My big beef, and yes, I use the word deliberately, with vegan and veggie eateries, is that they spend too much time trying to replicate meat dishes, usually not very well, instead of looking at the huge range of ingredients available to them and creating something different. If ever I need to prove my point I refer to Bundo as the place which takes vegetables to another level. OK, they did a replica hot dog to celebrate Euro2024 but that was to enhance the footie theme and the sausage was unashamedly unprocessed vegetarian rather than seitan (wheat gluten) made to resemble meat.
Pav Bhaji
When I arrived, the place was rocking and it was only just after 6.30! I was greeted by the two partners and Mayur asked me if I would like to try the speciality of the night, Pav Bhaji. This was being prepared in the back bar by a chef devoted to doing nothing else and it was amazing. It comprises smashed vegetables, spices, lemon, masala, onion and tomato butter served on a slider, which had been split into two to facilitate a double portion. What can I say, a lovely, light way in which to start an evening of celebration. As I was on my own, and it being a party, I was soon included in the conversation of the lovely people at the bench table where I was given a seat. They were in a great mood anyway, as they were going on to the cinema to watch a film about their heroes Blur. The lady next to me said it was great music to grow up to. I agreed as I was 40 when they released their first record so still had a fair bit of growing up to do!
Okra Fries and Gobi Manchurian
After a few more pleasantries I left to visit the bar for a second pint of Galaxy, a sensible strength hand-pulled cask ale, which was the perfect accompaniment to the grub on offer. I saw a couple of people I knew from my theatre trips and so inflicted myself on them for a while. When I ordered my beer I had added a Gobi Manchurian, which is described on the menu as being an Indo-Chinese mash-up of cauliflower and mushroom pakoras tossed in an umami-hot sauce. As it is illegal to come here and not order okra fries, I asked for a portion of them as well. This is okra like you have never tasted before, deep fried in a crisp chickpea batter, dusted with black salt and mango powder. This makes the veg wonderfully crisp and not mushy as can often be the case.
The number of people at our table had increased to four and very shortly their order appeared. This was one of the selections available, and what a selection it was, There is no way I am going to list each one, except to say that the creation at the front is not a pretend burger, but a sandwich which just happens to be presented in a brioche bun. As you will see, they had also rolled out the best tableware for the evening!
Having sampled the good food, beer and company, there were only two more things needed to complete the party, well three if you count the following day’s hangover; bangin’ tracks and cake, not necessarily in that order.
Before you ask, I only had one piece of cake – alright, two!
So, a tenth birthday party with not a balloon in sight, but a night to remember and, hopefully many more years of amazing Indian street food and beer to come. The dynamic duo of Mayur and Marko deserve to do well, not only have they discovered the secret of life relating to ale and curry, but they are a couple of great chaps as well. It’s funny, but over my years of eating out and talking with restaurateurs, it is the nicest people who make the best food. Must be something to do with the love involved.
If you want to see more about Bundobust, please go to https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/m001w976/rick-steins-food-stories-series-1-13-yorkshire where Rick Stein has a chat, or should that be chaat, with Mayur and Marko
To view the menu it is https://bundobust.com/menu/
Photographs by Stan Graham
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